DIY Garden Overalls – A Beginner’s Take on the Harlene Pattern
I’ve wanted to DIY my own garden overalls for a while now. I’ve made a couple of jumpsuits before, but they’re more of a casual summer style made from jersey material. I wear them often as loungewear.
For this project, I was looking for something classic and functional, something suitable for working in the garden. That means I needed pockets for gardening tools, knives, and seed packets. I also prefer a looser fit when working outdoors, it’s all about comfort After looking through many sewing patterns, I came across the Harlene pattern by Merchant & Mills.
I purchased the PDF version and printed the pattern. As is often the case with sewing projects (especially for someone like me who doesn’t sew a lot), it took some time to lay out the fabric properly, align the grain line, and place all the pattern pieces correctly. But it was well worth it!
Material and Machines
The pattern recommends a medium weights woven fabric; denim, cotton, corduroy, or something similar. The waistband and button fly can get bulky with thick fabric, so I went with a thin woven cotton that has a denim look. The lighter fabric is easier on my machine, which tends to struggle with heavy materials. Because the fabric I chose was quite light, I used the same fabric for the lining as well. Only a couple of pieces require lining (for the pockets and waist), so it worked out fine.
Although I own an overlocker, I did not use it for this project. I am not as comfortable using it and I felt like the time it would take me to set everything up and change the thread, was not worth it. That said, there is a fair bit of seams that need finishing. It would make the overalls look a lot more professional with the seams overlocked. Next time I will definitely give the overlocker a go.
This pattern includes a lot of topstitching. While it’s sometimes marked as optional, I think it really makes the overall look. I felt it was well worth doing. Since I don’t have two sewing machines, I opted for black thread throughout, including the topstitching, so I wouldn’t need to rethread constantly.
Sizing
The pattern is meant to have an oversized fit. The photos on the Merchant & Mills website were helpful in visualizing the finished garment. According to the size chart, I’m a size 10, but after consulting the finished measurements, I chose to make a size 8 instead. Even sizing down, the overalls still have a relaxed, roomy feel, just what I wanted.
I’m on the taller side (175 cm / 5’9″) and decided to lengthen the legs by 10 cm, as I often find pant legs too short. In the end, I had to take the hem up by almost the full amount I added — a 2 cm extension would have been sufficient
Sewing the Harlene Overalls
As mentioned, preparing the pattern and cutting the fabric took time — but that’s not specific to this pattern. The effort spent taping and cutting the pattern pieces, and then cutting the fabric, was probably equal to the time spent sewing the garment. Still, it’s time well spent. Careful preparation makes sewing much easier and more accurate. It ensures that pieces are the correct size, and notches align properly — avoiding any last-minute improvisation.
The instructions are very well written, detailed and easy to follow, even for less experienced.
Changes
- I used sew-on buttons instead of the recommended hardware, mostly because that’s what I had. It also leaves me with the option to change them later, which I like — I struggle with irreversible decisions.
- I didn’t use dungaree clips. Instead, I added several buttonholes to each strap. This reduces bulk (which I prefer, especially when wearing a shirt over the overalls) and allows me to adjust the strap length.
- I was planning to add a tool strap from the back pocket to the side seam — but I forgot. I’ll definitely include that in my next pair.
Fit
I love the fit! Even though I sized down, the overalls are still on the baggy side, perfect for working in the garden. The lightweight fabric is breathable and made the sewing easier for a first try, but it likely won’t hold up to heavy-duty garden work.
Takeaways for making the next Overalls
- Try making a pair in light corduroy
- Add a tool strap on the side of the leg
- Sizing down works well
- Add max 5 cm to the leg length (only necessary for taller folks)
- Choose lining fabric carefully — it may show slightly in the pockets
- Try to get the overlocker to work
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If you’re starting seeds for the season, you might enjoy this simple DIY seed starter box project I put together using recycled materials. It’s an easy way to give your seedlings a strong start — and pairs well with comfy garden overalls
